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I am back from the land of religion. My major insight is: the Israelis are doing themselves no favours by being so scared. E.g. we parked our car in the middle of nowhere and walked down a long winding path to a monastery perched on the side of the Wadi Qelt; when we returned, with the help of some Bedouin and their donkeys, we could see against the horizon the silhouettes of men with big guns. It was a coach tour group; the Israelis are told they need an armed escort to visit the wilderness.
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